Friday, March 9, 2012

Old and weak... Still!

Well nothing much new to report... The year is 3 months in already and I am about to turn 34 and I feel it! 7 kgs over sending weight isn't helping, and neither are my sore fingers. Doctor...

I did drag myself up to Amazon with Dom and Guy which was fun - at least the walk gave me some good exercise. Coming close on Evan is a Crimper was a big surprise, and Dom did well to come close on repeating Bitter and Twisted - he is seeming to be fast getting in to some good shape (and I don't refer to his body shape here). He still fell off Jeremy's Problem though, repeatedly - see below.

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Monday, January 30, 2012

Old Gregg clip

Since I haven't been up to much other than training, here is something else to share - a short clip of Ryan sending Old Gregg (7B+, Echo Valley) with some rather agricultural beta, but then what should you expect from the Zimbabwean climber of the year... It was shot using my iPhone so excuse the quality!

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Monday, January 23, 2012

Slow progress


With a new year comes new psyche. And a lot of that was driven by Harris chastising Dom and I about a lack of performance and improvement in the past 2 to 3 years while he has not been climbing. I think that may just have spurred us… While last year was all about getting back on my feet again (literally after my knee op) I feel that this year is going to be about hitting top form and hopefully getting up something hard which I haven’t done since 2009. 2010 came and went with me feeling really strong but 2 pulley injuries ruined what could have been a good year and then 2011 never really took off, although I did have a good period of ticking and repeating problems up to 7B.

At the moment I am working on getting a solid training foundation with the short term goal of cracking 80% (currently at 60% as of last night so some way to go) on the moderate EP session on my Beastmaker – why that golden number? Well that was where I was at when I sent Boogie Nights so I feel that will be a good starting point. At the same time it isn’t too tweaky so should lay a good solid base to work off of. Once that's achieved I will reassess. One of the key things I am keeping in mind is that I do need to keep switching training focus around to keep it fresh.

Seeing some of the new stuff around Topside has also been inspiring – problems like Cloverfield (8A) and In search of the new sound (8B) come to mind. There are also a stack of problems in the 7C to 8A range which should make a good starting point. I am just holding thumbs that I can keep on this trail! Here goes.