Wednesday, July 28, 2010

The first hurdle

My 8A scorecard makes for depressing reading but is a very real reflection of how slack my climbing for 2010 has been. I have now managed 3 days of training in a row (a 2 month record) and positively am unscathed. After a schooling by Jimbo at $ity Rock, the ego took a bit of a hit but the ambassador did mange to console me over a couple of draughts and also introduced me to complex training which has left my upper body aching this morning. Basically you do a set of repeaters or encores (i.e. strength) and then follow that up with an explosive power excercise like campusing. Think I will work this in to my last minute training as I can feel that it has worked me and can only be beneficial.

Todays a rest day and then tomorrow I will be back on ith training.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Getting the ball rolling

Right at last! My psyche is returning after some promising training sessions. My finger still hurts alittle but hell, it is winter and the temps are good, I can always rest later.

My recent focus has been on geting in to condiction rather than focusing on any specifc routine. Given my tweaky figer this has been a little difficult. Training has revolved around the following:
  1. Frenchies on the Beastmaker 35 degree slopers - great for core and general contact strengthand not too tweaky. Dom feels this is also a really good finger strength tool.
  2. One arm hangs - 20 degree soper and Beastmaker jug - just trying to get my body strength up again.
  3. Uneven pullups - I have a small bachar ladder which I use to place one arm on and then the other on my Beastmaker. Good for developing the arm strength that I don't seem to have.
  4. Encores on the small Beastmaker crimps - if I drag hold the small crimps it dosen't hurt too much. Good for finger strength and also lock-offs.
  5. Systemsboard - Good for developing contact strength, body strength and a little power resistance, with a pinch of core strength and locking off. Been focusing on crimps and pinches but it is still early days.
  6. Bouldering - it has all been indoors recently which is a real shame given how good the weather outside has been! I have mostly been focusig on very easy climbing to condition my finger and body. Possibly time to push it up a gear.
  7. Pushups - great for developing the opposition muscle set and also a little core and genral body strength
11 days to Rocklands...

Friday, July 23, 2010

False dawn

The temps are low and the action is seriouly heating in in Rocklands. Alas, I haven't even made one trip there yet but that looks all set to change soon. I had high hopes for this season - my pre season conditioning was much better but the glimmer of hope soon faded with a tweaky left middle finger that just dosen't want to improve. After being a serious contender I think I will need to settle with just reaching the finishing line this year.

Harris, Dom and I are all starting to get suspicious about our Beastmakers. We all seem to share similar finger ailments and hangboarding seems to be the common theme??? The trick seems to be to hold yourself back because as soon as you start to push there is a high chance that injury will soon follow.

Given the above I have had a slight climbing hiatus over the last month or so (somewhat Soccer induced as well)  trying to rest up but it hasn't helped so I have resorted to gritting my teeth and fighting on.The finger injury has been a goodopportunity to focus on developing other weaknesses. That said one night a week at $ity Rock does not make 8Bs fall (for me at least). On the plus side according to Kerry (my body alignment therapist), I am supposedly in really good shape? Maybe things are about to turn? I did manage to do a one arm pullup on M2 (on my right only though) so maybe my weakness perception is just psychological. All I can say however is that the Big 5 reunion is happening in 2 weeks and I need to be fighting fit for that so the count down has begun..

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Slow -mo-tivation

A month of on and off sickness coupled with soccer driven excuses have meant that I have been completely slack! My finger injury hasn't helped - an easy justification why not to train. Having made some good early progress on Pandemonium almost a month back I now find myself back to base level strength.

On the flip-side, the possibility of a Rocklands trip in the near future is doing wonders for the resurrection of psyche. That alongside seeing big Dom crush the Scree on Sunday means I have to pull some finger soon especially if my ambitious goals for the year are going to be achieved.