My recent focus has been on geting in to condiction rather than focusing on any specifc routine. Given my tweaky figer this has been a little difficult. Training has revolved around the following:
- Frenchies on the Beastmaker 35 degree slopers - great for core and general contact strengthand not too tweaky. Dom feels this is also a really good finger strength tool.
- One arm hangs - 20 degree soper and Beastmaker jug - just trying to get my body strength up again.
- Uneven pullups - I have a small bachar ladder which I use to place one arm on and then the other on my Beastmaker. Good for developing the arm strength that I don't seem to have.
- Encores on the small Beastmaker crimps - if I drag hold the small crimps it dosen't hurt too much. Good for finger strength and also lock-offs.
- Systemsboard - Good for developing contact strength, body strength and a little power resistance, with a pinch of core strength and locking off. Been focusing on crimps and pinches but it is still early days.
- Bouldering - it has all been indoors recently which is a real shame given how good the weather outside has been! I have mostly been focusig on very easy climbing to condition my finger and body. Possibly time to push it up a gear.
- Pushups - great for developing the opposition muscle set and also a little core and genral body strength