Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Getting the ball rolling

Right at last! My psyche is returning after some promising training sessions. My finger still hurts alittle but hell, it is winter and the temps are good, I can always rest later.

My recent focus has been on geting in to condiction rather than focusing on any specifc routine. Given my tweaky figer this has been a little difficult. Training has revolved around the following:
  1. Frenchies on the Beastmaker 35 degree slopers - great for core and general contact strengthand not too tweaky. Dom feels this is also a really good finger strength tool.
  2. One arm hangs - 20 degree soper and Beastmaker jug - just trying to get my body strength up again.
  3. Uneven pullups - I have a small bachar ladder which I use to place one arm on and then the other on my Beastmaker. Good for developing the arm strength that I don't seem to have.
  4. Encores on the small Beastmaker crimps - if I drag hold the small crimps it dosen't hurt too much. Good for finger strength and also lock-offs.
  5. Systemsboard - Good for developing contact strength, body strength and a little power resistance, with a pinch of core strength and locking off. Been focusing on crimps and pinches but it is still early days.
  6. Bouldering - it has all been indoors recently which is a real shame given how good the weather outside has been! I have mostly been focusig on very easy climbing to condition my finger and body. Possibly time to push it up a gear.
  7. Pushups - great for developing the opposition muscle set and also a little core and genral body strength
11 days to Rocklands...

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