Thursday, May 27, 2010

Edelrid Mantle Crash Pad

I just got my new Edelrid Mantle crash pad and can’t wait to get out and use it; especially given my current projects is a serious highball! The pad has some great features that are very useful hence me choosing it. The most impressive for me is that the 2 halves can be zipped together either on the length or width of the pad giving you more versatility than normal (especially useful if you need to pad out a traverse or long roof problems). In addition the Edelrid guys throw in a Sit Start launch pad which is something that sets this deal apart from other crash pads quite nicely (The Edelrid Dead Point and Crux crash pads also come with a Sit Start launch pad).The logo on the pad is made from a  carpet type material which is perfect for cleaning your shoes on before going for that hard send.

 Pic: The Edelrid Mantle Crash Pad

Some more technical info: It is 10 cm thick using 2 different foams to offer optimal cushioning and absorption. The outer material is strong ballistic nylon which provides a robust and water-repellent shell (useful for wet Rocklands and Topside days). As I said above the two halves can be zipped together either on the long side (120 x 115 cm), or on the end (230 x 60 cm). The Mantle has sturdy shoulder straps and indestructible aluminum buckles.

 Pic: Me putting the Edelrid Sit Start launch pad to use

Monday, May 24, 2010

Down with the sickness

I am good at setting goals for myself and disciplined enough to stick to them. But unfortunately when I really get in to training I tend to push it too far - the result being a forced lay-off due to tweakiness or flu. Having been in a great space for the last 3 months I succumbed to both forcing me to find ways to tread water for a while - i place I really dislike!

Reading this blog post has made me more thoughtful about what my indicators are and if it is possible to stop before it is too late?

Urban Ninja lists the following:
  1. Sugar – when I am close to the limit, I crave sugar.
  2. KFC – nothing beats a Boxmaster Deluxe Upsize with a Chocolate Shake when I am feeling on the edge. Its a sure sign I need to back off.
  3. Erratic sleep – I will be dead tired by 8pm and ready for bed but when I get to bed I sleep badly. My body is so broken I can’t sleep properly. This happens to me a few times a year, but that’s only because me + music + forests = totally overdoing it.
  4. Hiding from the world – I will go into a cocoon when I am overdoing it, avoiding people, socializing and crowds of people. Insert me into society and I tend to be short and upsetting to those around me.

 Pic: Sourced from Urban Ninja - Lance pushing it.

Some obvious ones for me are general lethargy, lack of psyche and tweakiness (Shoulders, elbows and fingers). Lack of sleep is definitely another, and often pre flu/cold I have an unquenchable thirst. Any others?

Whats difficult I find though is to judge when to stop or when to push through, especially with tweakiness. From what I have read it is often better to drop intensity then to stop altogether as light exercise stimulates blood flow which helps recovery. This is currently the approach I am testing so for now no more beastly BM sessions with repeaters - strictly a diet of 35 degree slopers and bouldering on holds that aren't too painful.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Power fitness supplements

Over and above my 2 system board sessions I also have included 2 power fitness supplements using my Beastmaker. The first is more power endurance focused using the Ethan Pringle 20 minute moderate hangboard session. The second using repeaters is pure power fitness and focuses on finger strength.

My current repeater routine is as follows:

          Grip  (Hold - Style - Weight)
  1. Front 2  (Small pocket - Repeater - none)
  2. Middle 2  (Small pocket - Repeater - none)
  3. Back 2  (Back 2 pocket - Repeater - none)
  4. Half crimp  (Crimp rung - Encores - none)
  5. Full hand  (35 sloper - Pullup x5 - 6kgs)
  6. Crimp  (My mids - Pullup x5 - 6kgs)

So far I am finding this routine quite hard and am failing on go 4 for the 2 finger repeaters, but that was second day on after bouldering the day before so a little rest may help.