Thursday, May 6, 2010

Power fitness supplements

Over and above my 2 system board sessions I also have included 2 power fitness supplements using my Beastmaker. The first is more power endurance focused using the Ethan Pringle 20 minute moderate hangboard session. The second using repeaters is pure power fitness and focuses on finger strength.

My current repeater routine is as follows:

          Grip  (Hold - Style - Weight)
  1. Front 2  (Small pocket - Repeater - none)
  2. Middle 2  (Small pocket - Repeater - none)
  3. Back 2  (Back 2 pocket - Repeater - none)
  4. Half crimp  (Crimp rung - Encores - none)
  5. Full hand  (35 sloper - Pullup x5 - 6kgs)
  6. Crimp  (My mids - Pullup x5 - 6kgs)

So far I am finding this routine quite hard and am failing on go 4 for the 2 finger repeaters, but that was second day on after bouldering the day before so a little rest may help.


  1. Ah ok. What's your timing for the repeaters? 7 on 7 off?

  2. It is 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off with 7 repeats in total (i.e. each set lasts 1 minute and 10 seconds).

  3. hehe, I got all my starting grip positions up to 10 secs or more but couldn't repeater any of them past 3 or 4 reps. 3 secs is min! Will have to adjust rest or grips....

  4. I know. I went and tweaked my finger trying this routine 3rd day on :(