Friday, April 30, 2010

Power endurance redux

Initial reaction to my thoughts on power endurance using a system board has been mixed but I have come to a realization that it is mostly a semantic issue. To overcome the confusion I am now calling my original power endurance “power fitness”. Using this term it becomes my evident as to what my objective for this phase is – i.e. to maximise my ability to access full power for as long as possible. This means that I have more strong attempts on a problem in a day.

After bouncing some thoughts this week I am starting to get a clearer picture of what is required. Moreover a week in to my new system board routine is showing me that I am on the right track for my overall objective for this cycle. However I do feel that there is a need to include some hangboarding and have therefore also included a Ethan Pringle hangboard session to maximise focus on true power endurance and a repeater session to focus on finger strength specific power endurance.

The routine currently goes as follows:
Monday – System board session
Tuesday – Ethan Pringle session
Wednesday – System board session
Thursday – Repeater session (done on Friday if I feel tweaky)


  1. Good one, power fitness also great for a comp format. I'm wondering though, if your system board trains a max of 8 moves, and your repeater is mostly power, do you think the EP covers power endurance for problems between 8-20 moves. I know you used it for Boogie Nights but when I'm doing it it seems more for route power endurance: 30+ moves. Or am I wrong? Wasn't it created for Realizaion: a massive route?

  2. I see you were using the 30 minute EP session. That seems to have slightly lower intensity and I think would be fine for what you are looking for. 29 hangs/pull ups on the minute would also better simulate a longer route?

    For Boogie Nights I used the 20 minute moderate session - higher intensity and fine for bouldering power endurance.

    Just a thought - what about using a more interval type approach? Design a 10 min hangboard session and then repeater it 3/5 times with 5 min rest between sets?

  3. Yea, that's a good idea: might hit the gap quite well. Shot.

    Actually, I've taken the 20min moderate and tacked on the first 10min of the easy: just to build intensity a little slower: I usually start this excercise from cold..