My recent internal mental debate has centered around “what is power endurance”, “how does it apply to bouldering” and what is the most effective way to train it? For sport climbing where the level of moves may not be as intense, using interval training could be sufficient as long as you get the circuits rights and don’t rely too heavily on using the same circuit where practice effect starts to lead to diminished returns. Bouldering on the other hand requires more power and less of the endurance… Some solutions include repeaters (see the Beastmaker website) and the “Ethan Pringle” (EP) session both of which use a hangboard. I feel that both of these are great tools, and I have used them extensively but their long term benefits I feel are limited given their simplicity and highly isolated focus. Given that my previous hypertrophy and power cycles exclusively focus on hangboarding, my feeling is that using a hangboard for my power endurance cycle as well would limit the trainings overall transference to rock performance. I do however feel that it is a crucial supplement which I inject in to my training from time to time.
At the end of last year my power endurance training focused on repeaters and the EP session. At that time I had just completed Boogie Nights (18 move power endurance problem) and had been training specifically for that so my power endurance was at an all time high so currently I am somewhat undecided on how best to approach this. Since I haven’t fully utilised my system board yet my decision has been to focus on this for the current power endurance cycle. This will allow me to cover a greater spectrum of movement and hopefully a more rock applicable power endurance also biased towards bouldering and not sport climbing. I have settled on 2 sets of 20 system board routines/problems which focus on an array of movements and grip types (crimps, gastons, layaways, underclings, pinches and compression). I am attempting to do 2 repetitions for each problem by this could prove too much! The rationale for the 2 sets of problems is to accommodate for the practice effect I referred to earlier. In addition I will supplement these sessions with a repeater session at least once a week.